Kotoin, Zen temple with beautiful mossed approach

This subdued scenery with moss may be one of the reasons that will make me come back to Kyoto.  I don’t like rain during any of my trips, but I’ll make an exception when going to Kyoto.  After the rain, a stone pathway and greens look more beautiful when wet.  

Here is a picture of Kotoin, one of my most favorite small temples in Ditokuji.  I was supposed to go there for tea ceremony on that day, which unfortunately did not happen. Yet my trip to the temple was not in vain because the scenery was worth the time.   I was captivated by the beauty of mosses surrounding the gateway and went into the temple.  The best thing about the garden seems that it was naturally designed.   You will feel a sense of tranquility simply by enjoying the natural looking trees.  When we visited on Nov. 28, the leaves had begun to change their colors.  The colors were still pale, and the scenery was not like an oil painting but more of water color.  There were some people peacefully enjoying tea at the porch along the garden.  I love the view that is trimmed off by the door frame. 

In Kotoin, they have a small tea room designed by Sansai Hosokawa.  Soft light fills the room from the windows creating an delicate and exquisite aura.  I longed to have a chance to be in that room.  They also have the removed and rebuilt Rikyu’s shoin-room from Jurakudai.  I found that room too somber, though (^^;;  Go to see it yourself, haha.

This temple doesn’t have anything magnificent to behold.  This temple is simple and rustic.   You might find wabi-sabi there.  If you are looking for the tranquility of Japan, this is one of the temples that I highly recommend you to visit.

Tea ceremony at Daitokuji, Kyoto 2

The temple that we finally found  for a tea ceremony was Korinin in Daitokuji, Kyoto.  I later on learned from Wikipedia that this temple is not usually open to the public.

The ceremony was held in a big room with more than 20 guests.  Most of them were wearing kimono.  Everybody seemed to know the manner of Sado, The Way of Tea, and the ceremony went along smoothly.  The most memorable thing of the ceremony was the excellent flavor of the tea.  Since I love matcha from a local tea shop in my town, I don’t usually find good tasting matcha in other places.  Fortunately, the matcha served at this ceremony was quite flavorful.  It didn’t have much bitter taste in it and the pure flavor of green has simply pleased my palate.  The tea didn’t have any undesirable flavor.  The reason for its great flavor may not only be the matcha powder itself.  The thickness, temperature and amount of liquid were all well considered and it was exquisitely prepared.  Maybe water was superb, I don’t know, but everything seemed perfect.

The matcha was Tamanoshiro from Ryuoen tea shop in Kyoto.  I wanted it for my souvenir so we visited Ryuoen on our way back from Daitokuji.  However, to my disappointment the shop was closed on that day.  Bummer! 

I found their tea on this webpage (Japanese) >>>

http://shop.kyotodays.jp/fs/kyotoseikatsu/c/020

I still don’t know where you can get schedules and information about tea ceremonies in Kyoto, but anyhow I was able to attend one at Daitokuji on 28th of last month.  We did not wear kimono and we just looked like ordinary tourists but the receptionist welcomed us.  What I can say for now is that there are some ceremonies that are open for everybody.  However, you need to be aware that most of the attendees are experienced people.  It is advisable for you to know the basic manners of tea ceremony.  If you are willing to learn the culture and participate to the authentic tea ceremony, this could be a good place for you to try.  It will be a fantastic experience at a historical Zen temple.

Another garden in Korinin.  They also have a small tea hut. 

Tea ceremony at Daitokuji, Kyoto 1

On the 28^th Oct., the second day of our trip to Kyoto, we headed to Daitokuji.  The first place we visited was Gyokurinin, one of the small temples of Daitkuji.  We found the sign for a tea ceremony on the gate.  It was slightly different from what I’ve learned from the internet, “在釜”.  This is “懸釜”, which basically have the same meaning.

We passed through the gate and walked further in Gyokurinin. We finally reached the entrance of the building, and we saw a lot of shoes on the shoe rack.  We talked to a receptionist, and she told us that there were already so many people waiting and we might have to wait for two hours.  Two hours!?  In our surprise, we looked at each other’s faces.  And then, we decided not to wait any longer, and proceed to look for other ceremonies at other temples.    

We left Gyokurinin and walked around Daitokuji.  There are small temples adjacent to each other.  We saw a gate that people in kimono were going in.  I was thinking that the temple of the gate was holding a tea ceremony.  But as I walked to the gate, I found a sign “private”.  We found a couple more gates with the same sign.  I guess that some tea ceremonies might be exclusive. 

As we were walking around, we just visited two temples for sightseeing.  They didn’t have a ceremony, but have absolutely beautiful gardens.  They are not gorgeous but they suit my taste which is simple and natural.  We were quite satisfied visiting the beautiful gardens, and we thought of giving up attending a tea ceremony. 

On the way to the parking lot, I found another gate.  We asked a receptionist if there is a tea ceremony held here.  The receptionist told us that they were holding a ceremony and we could join it.  We were finally able to find the one that we can attend to.  We waited at the waiting room for the next session for about 30 min.   The waiting room was just next to a garden with white gravel.  The historical building and the superb garden raised my expectation to anticipate the ceremony. 

To be continued …

Looking for a tea ceremony in Kyoto

I browsed about tea ceremonies in Kyoto to find out if there was any that I could attend during my trip there.  Disappointingly, I could not find much reliable sources.  But, I discovered some blogs mentioning about them.  There appear to be monthly tea ceremonies held at some of the small temples in Daitokuji often every 28^th of a month.  (Daitokuji is a famous and large temple that consists with a number of small temples.)  If a temple is holding a tea ceremony, there seem to be a sign on the entrance gate that says “在釜”.  Anyway, I’m surprised to learn that there is not much information online about tea ceremonies in Kyoto. 

I could not tell how formal the ceremonies will be.  You might need an appointment or to wear kimono.  One blog writer says that he was a tourist there and doesn’t know much about tea ceremonies.  But, he didn’t have any problems joining one.  On the other hand, some other people say that the ceremony is pretty formal and you have to wear kimono.  Humm.  I just wanted to casually join a ceremony during my Kyoto trip.  So, I decided to just go to Daitokuji and look for the sign “在釜”.  If I’m lucky, I’ll get to join one.  If I’m not, I will just have sightseeing on the beautiful gardens in Daitokuji.

Have you ever tried attending a tea ceremony in Kyoto?  How did you find the information ahead?  Do you think I could join one in Kyoto?  I’ll talk about it on the next entry.

This is Sanmon at Daitokuji.  It is said that the statue of Rikyu displayed in this Sanmon can be one of the causes of Rikyu’s seppuku execution. 

Do you want to know how to meet maiko ladies?

This weekend, I went to Kyoto for a trip.  You can find some retro streets around Gion area, where I think a good place even for a walk.  If you are lucky, you might be able to see maiko ladies.  I had a chat and walked around and took some photos with them.  It was nice to hang out with ladies in kimono stroll walk around the traditional town.  Do you want to know how to meet this kind of maiko ladies?

Actually, they are Hiro, my wife and Miwa, our tea classmate!  They are not real maiko.  There are some photo studios in Kyoto that make you into a maiko for recreation.  So, if you want to see maiko ladies, be the one yourself or have your partner to be one of them too. 

For the plan Hiro and Miwa tried, it took about 3 hours for the entire activities.  It took about one hour to make up and dress.  They had photo shooting in the studio about 15 min each.  And we had 20 min walk outside at the retro streets around the neighborhood of the studio.  And it took another hour for changing clothes and choosing the best shots for printing.  Hiro and Miwa seemed to have a lot of fun.  Since they are bit of shy, they were bashful about walking outside because people definitely looked at them.  Tourists passing maiko looked back and oftentimes they aimed their camera at the kimono ladies.  You need to be open-minded and enjoy the attention.

Photo shooting in the studio

I didn’t try it myself so I waited for a quite some time at their lounge.  While I was waiting, many groups of ladies came and went.   They all looked excited when they were having instruction at the beginning, and after the photo shooting, they were having fun selecting the photos.  The plan that Hiro and Miwa tried was about 10,000 yen, which includes an option of photo retouch.  They can cover the unnatural gap of the wig and wrinkles, hahaha.   The plan covers three printed photos (no original data) from studio shooting.  The fee varies by the plans and options.  It is a worthwhile activity in Kyoto.  Be a maiko yourself and blend into the traditional city!

The photo studio we visited >> http://www.yumekoubou.info/english/index.html

Why tea whisks matter 2

Like I’ve mentioned in the previous blog, I didn’t find a significant difference between the moderately-frothed usucha (thin tea) prepared with a 100-tine whisk and the one prepared with a 70-tine whisk.  Then, I tried the same experiment on the well-whisked usucha with plenty of foam.  The conditions are the same as the previous test.  (Matcha: 1.7 grams,  Water: 50 ml,  Whisking: 20 sec)  I beat both teas with faster motion to obtain extravagant foam, “A” with 100-tine whisk and “B” with 70-tine whisk.

“A” with 100-tine whisk,  “B” with 70-tine whisk

I felt a resistance in the liquid while I was whisking “A”, and I could feel it in my senses that a generous amount of foam was formed.  On the other hand, I find a less viscous feeling on beating liquid “B”.  Lavish foam is covered on both of the surfaces.  The photo might not be clear but if you look at it closely, you will notice that “A” has finer foam and the foam in “B” is rougher and more bubbly.  I would find out later on, after taking sips, that there are more apparent comparisons to see.  For instance, the moment that the tea bowl reached my mouth, “A” has thicker foam.  I could not tell it from the surface.  I got a totally different impression on each tea now.

If you taste them more attentively, you’ll find the same quality of bitterness and sweetness.  However, the most obvious comparison would have to do with the texture of the foam produced.   The foam in “A” fills your mouth, and delicate taste lingers for a long time.  It consisted with fine tiny bubbles, so the foam is spongier.   Meanwhile, the rough and big bubbles in “B” easily break and disappear, and give a lighter touch.   

I therefore conclude that if you prefer usucha with rich and fine foam; use a whisk with a large number of tines.  If you like your tea with lighter foam, beat with a fewer-tine whisk.  There are various factors affecting the taste and texture of tea, and you can’t simply find a perfect answer.  However, the tea whisk matters for sure. 

Why tea whisks matter 1

I did an experiment on preparing a bowl of matcha with a 100-tine whisk (A) and the other one with 70-tine whisk (B).  In the previous entry, I mentioned that lately I prefer a fewer-tine whisk for its easy handling and better grip.  I wanted to focus on how the number of tines can affect frothing and the taste this time. 

I used 1.7 grams of matcha and 50ml of water for a standard usucha, thin tea.  I gently whisked both of them with the same speed of stroke for 20sec to attain a moderate amount of foam.

Here is what I realized: when whisking, I found the whisk “B” gentlier to mix in the tea bowl.  The whisk “A” is larger in size and bulky so it limits the range of your stroke.  It is not a big deal really but it’s good to be aware of it when you choose a whisk.  I got a thin layer of foam on both of the surfaces.  “A” has a slightly more foam and it is wholly covered.  You can still see the surface partially on “B” forming a little circle.   Finesse of each bubble is pretty much the same, but with a closer observation, you can tell that the foam in “A” is a little finer.  Consecutively, I didn’t find significant differences on their taste.  They have similar textures and flavor.  To further contain my wonderings, I sifted the tea before the mixture so I didn’t find any lumps or residues at the bottom of each tea after drinking.

Now I think that you don’t have to be so picky about the whisk with preparing usucha with moderate foam.  You may find a little difference on ease of handling and frothing, but you definitely will not find a significant difference on taste. 

I started to wonder if there is any difference for well-whisked usucha with a lot of foam.  I did another round of test for it.  It’s exiting but I will talk about it on the next entry.

Impact of the foam to the taste

Do you know why the amount of the foam is different on each of the bowl of matcha in this photo?  The way of whisking tea varies depending on school traditions.  Some schools tell to whisk fast and well to attain a lot of foam, but some schools do not.  The speed of whisking makes the difference of the amount of foam.  Here in our school, Omotesenke, we are taught to whisk lightly to attain just moderate amount of foam.  

I prepared two bowls of matcha, one with a lot of foam (A) and the other with a moderate amount of foam (B).  I tasted them to concur if the way of whisking or the foam affects the taste.  I prepared the tea with a standard method of making usucha, thin tea.  I precisely measured and used 1.7 grams of matcha and 50ml (1.8oz) water for each.   I whisked both for the same period of time, 20 seconds, “A” with faster whisking and “B” with slower beating.  Which type of tea attracts your palate?

Based on my experience, I think well-whisked tea has a better taste because all of the components are perfectly mixed.   However, my instinct tells me to heed on the teachings of my school, which I had modestly done lately.  I heard different theories advocating either way.  Here I actually tasted them myself.

After all, is there really a difference in taste?  Well, I’m delighted to say Yes.  I sure found out the two teas differently.  With the first sips, I sensed stronger bitterness in “B”.  To find out more profound difference, I sipped more alternately seeking satisfaction for my curiosity of the difference.  I then realized that “A” also possessed bitterness.  I also find the same degree of grains in both of them.  So, what is truly the difference?  Density.  For “A”, you put the tea into your mouth in dig your lips into the foam.  Your mouth is filled with airy foam and it makes the taste milder.  As for “B”, the moisture or the tea itself gets your tongue covered around.   So, you can taste the intense flavor.  The difference is not really the quality of flavor, instead the feeling of texture of the ingredients has a bigger impact.

I didn’t use good quality tea this time, so I tasted bold bitterness.  I prefer the method “A” for this bitter tea.  But if it is a premium matcha, the method “B” can be good too.  I don’t want to simply conclude which is better at this point.  I want to pursue seeking and have more experience for deeper understanding through my tea carrier.

Trial and error for perfect tea storage

I have done an experiment to find out the best way to store my precious tea.  I considered the same containers, but did trials on room temperature, refrigerator and a freezer.  The tea kept in the refrigerator appeared the worst quality.  Meanwhile, the teas stored in either the room or in the freezer, has more likely the same result, same quality, and they were both better than the refrigerator-stored tea.  I concluded that the normal room storage is the best there is.

The entry regarding about the previous test >>>

http://everyonestea.blogspot.jp/2011/06/best-condition-for-daily-tea-storing-2.html

Quite honestly, I have little doubts about this result.  I had done some other tests on tea storage simultaneously, and I achieved unconvincing results on those test.  Then I realized that there was something different, something was out of the way.  Alas!  I packed the tea samples on a rainy and humid day.  I assumed that the leaves absorbed moisture, plus I packed them with the humid air. These conditions: moisture and density of air, contributed a significant effect on my tea storage.  Having said that, I think that the result of the test for the best storage is not reliable and needed modifications.

Here, I did another test again.  This time, I packed the samples in a fine dry day.  I had to take note of the temperature and humidity using thermometer and hygrometer. I need to be precise and specific.  I stored them in the following conditions for one month.

A.    Room temperature

B.    Refrigerator

C.    Freezer

Here goes the result:

A.    Bitter

B.    Clear

C.    Bitter

I soon discovered that “A” and “C” have a bold bitterness, especially “A”.  Relatively, I found “B” most tasteful.  I would conclude that the refrigerator is the best place, sort of.  You might have realized that “A” has a lot more fine residue of tea settling at the bottom of the cup compared with the other cups.  This means I did not evenly pick the grains of the samples when packing though I specifically weighed each sample equally.  I tried to be very careful, but actually it was not enough.  Small grains of leaves dissolve the substances faster than larger grains.  This created the possibility for “A” to be bitter. 

I’m sorry that I cannot give you a confident answer for this issue again.  I am annoyingly frustrated.  However, by taking notes of these errors, I hope I could reach a more profound and convincing result someday.  I just have to be optimistic!

An aged man in a tea ceremony

A middle-aged man, in his mid 50's was standing at the entrance of a tea room, looking as if he did not know what to do.  None of the staff were present, since they were all at the back.  The man wanted to ask if the next ceremony will be the one for his ticket.  He is skinny and simple, and he was not even wearing kimono.  He wore just checkered shirt and a pair of trousers.  I saw this man at the tea ceremony I attended yesterday.  

The tea ceremonies were held at Aichi Prefectural Ceramic Museum.

One of the ceremonies held in their tea house.

This is the tea house.

The man finally found a staff member and got in the room.  Me and all other guests, about 15-20 people, had been already in the room.  We could see the man from our seat.  The man moved to the last position and seated.  Soon after, one of the guests asked him to sit at the seat for the main guest.  The main guest, who should be an expert and experienced in tea ceremonies, represents the whole body of the guests and he converses with the host.   Usually, at huge ceremonies like this, the guests choose from the members or rather wait for someone to reluctantly volunteer to be the main guest.  However, this man without hesitation accepted the offer with humility and moved to the position.

This ceremony was for koicha, a thick tea, which is considered more formal than usucha, a thin tea.  I was quite excited for koicha and little nervous at the same time.  The aged man was totally calm on his seat.  He looked poised.  The host entered in the room and started preparing tea.  The man flawlessly greeted and spoke with the host.   While he was having a warm chat with the host, he took time to smile and gestured to the other guests.  He is very knowledgeable about tea utensils but at the same time imposing an amazing humility on this expertise as he willingly shared his skills to the other guests. 

At tea ceremonies, there are some people who wear kimono and have an obvious aura of master.  However, this presenile man doesn’t have that kind of arrogance.  He appeared to be just an ordinary man.  However with his wisdom and fine gestures, everyone could tell the he is a very experienced tea person.  I think not many of the guests expected that he would be an expert when he was standing at the entrance of the tea room.  I was impressed on his humble attitude and simplicity.   I definitely want to be like him when the time comes and I get his age.  Looks can be deceiving indeed. This man seemed so simple and common, but skills and knowledge inside shimmer like gold.

When I left the tea house, I saw him walking alone toward another site of a tea ceremony.  I wonder how many people he can amaze again with his splendid expertise on this wonderful tea day.

The tea room after the ceremony

Aichi Prefectural Ceramic Museum (Japanese) >>> http://www.pref.aichi.jp/touji/top.html

My first day in the tea school

When my brother and I visited the tea school for the first time, the master served refreshing tea for us.  The room was so quiet and the only sound that we heard was the sound of her preparing tea.  It was a familiar traditional Japanese room but something was different.  It was neat and clean, where a simple ornamental and a hanging scroll were displayed.   The master acted with precision and seriousness.

While she was preparing the tea, somehow laughter welled up on us.  We were young.  It was going to be so rude if we laughed aloud.  We tried hard not to laugh in there.  When you ware young and you are in serious situations, have you experienced trying to suppress laughter, but can’t help it?  We sometimes looked at each other’s face, and finding out the other person is also struggling to hold back made it a lot funnier and hilarious.  It was crazy!

The two young guys definitely felt something, something peaceful and extraordinary.  The unique atmosphere prompted the laughter.   We certainly giggled, but it means that the ceremony has some magical allure to common people like us.  Whatever that spark is, we were drawn into its world since then.  I always reminisce on that entertaining tea ceremony experience that me and my brother had.

My recent interest on tea whisk

There are usually two or three tea whisks that are ready in the preparation room at my tea class.  You can use whichever you want.  Lately, I realized that I’m often choosing the one with few splines.

Tea whisks usually have around 30 to 120 splines.  The whisks with fewer splines are used for koicha, thick tea.  The ones with many splines are often used for usucha, thin tea.  The rule seems to depend on school traditions.  I have never thought about specific rules at my school so far.  I believe that the whisks I commonly see at my class would have the splines in the range of 60 to 100.  

You will consider many aspects when you choose a tea whisk.  The number of splins affects the fineness of the foam.  The special effect and feeling of tea whisking oftentimes depend on what tea whisk you use; elastic or rigid. I preferred the whisk with a large number of splines (100-120) when I started Sado (The Way of Tea) because I thought that it can mix tea well.  These days, I seem to care about other things too.  The reason why I pick the one with fewer splines is that it has thinner handle.   I find that a thin handle fits in my hand better, and gives me a perfect grip.

This is figure of two tea whisks.  Left: 100 splines  Right: 70 splines

The one with many splines have a thicker handle.

I told to Hiro, my wife, about it who attends the same tea class with me.  She commented that she also prefers the thin-handled whisk for the same reason.  At the class, the thick-handled tea whisk is often wet, so I guess that another disciple who attends the class before me prefers the thick one.  The one Hiro and I prefer is about 60-70 splines, and the thick one has 90-100, approximately.  How about you?  Would the thickness of tea whisk handle matter?   Are you meticulous about the grip when whisking?