Smell in the tea room

What do you smell in the tea room?  The aroma of green tea?  Yes, it’s not only that.  During summer we use the fragrance wood and kneaded incense in winter.  To fill the room with incense, it is placed by the charcoals in the brazier or sunken hearth.　Japanese incense has more subdued and earthy smell compared to the fragrances used at Western countries which are floral or sweet.  The earthly aromas probably fit better with green tea. I honestly don't know much about incenses.  I even don't know what aromas I like to smell. There are many things to learn about in sado, The Way of Tea.

lisn, an incense shop in Kyoto

One of my blog readers introduced me “lisn”, an incense shop in Kyoto.  Ever since I saw their cool website (http://www2.lisn.co.jp/), I wanted to visit there.  I was finally able to visit their shop during my trip to Kyoto.  At the shop, there are a large variety of samples displayed. Customers are allowed to smell them. Such aromas were fruity, nutty, sweet to refreshing ones.  Customers can buy incenses by piece. 

Their incenses were sold as a stick, which is different from what we use in sado.  Since I don’t use charcoal at home, it is difficult for me to try the classic type of the incense.  Their stick incenses were very attractive for me.  I bought three kinds of incenses including sandalwood.  Sandalwood is a popular aroma used in sado.  Their sandalwood has a little sweetness in it.  The smell may be slightly different from the classic but I’m still happy to enjoy the incense casually.  I would like to explore more and see what scents I like and also the ones that goes well with tea. How about you?  What aroma would you prefer for your tea?

Japanese tea enthusiast only

Have you ever dreamed about making your own taste of tea?  You can actually make one at Fukujuen in Kyoto.  The teas sold at various stores are usually blended in different kinds.  You can try the tea blending at Fukujuen.  It will be quite maniac, but if you are a Japanese tea enthusiast, you will be fascinated about it.

They have a list of different teas; sencha, kabusecha and gyokuro.  You can choose your tea preference by checking out the description from the list, and you can actually have a taste of it.

A crew will help you to find your choice of tea.

The crew prepares the teas for tasting.  She knows how to prepare delicious tea very well.  If you are not sure how good green tea tastes like, this will be a great place to try decent Japanese tea.

 

We were a party of three and shared teas with each other so we could taste many different kinds. 

After some tasting, I found a tea that I really liked.  It is extremely mellow sencha, with no bitterness and full of pleasing sweetness.  That sencha is okumidori breed from Wazuka region.  It was quite different, or I should say it’s much better than the okumidori that I know.  This okumidori can be too mellow so I decided to blend a yamakai with a distinctive flavor.  The yamakai has a refreshing note with a gorgeous fruity fragrance.  I wondered about the ratio of blending if I should go for 7:3 or 9:1.  This whole process of tasting and wondering is what I enjoy most.  I decided to go for 9:1=okumidori:yamakai.  The crew blended them and finally served me the tea.  Yes, Excellent!!  The tea has a rounded sweet flavor with an accent of refreshing yamakai aroma.  It was perfect.

I paid 2,257yen for this tea (100g/3.5oz) which is expensive for sencha.  But if you consider the quality and all the experience, it is very reasonable and all worth it.  If you are a Japanese tea enthusiast, I highly recommend this place if you get the chance to drop by Kyoto. 

Fukujuen >>> http://www.fukujuen-kyotohonten.com/english/floor.html

Space ship in Kyoto

What do you think this is?　It looks like a chamber in a space ship, doesn’t it? 

Actually, this is a hotel that I stayed in Kyoto!  If you are traveling around Japan, what are the choices for a reasonable accommodation?   Capsule hotels are definitely one of them.  When I was looking for a hotel during my Kyoto trip, a lot of hotels didn’t have vacancies.  I guess it was a peak season.  Instead, what I found was this capsule hotel, which is quite new and stylish.  The price was very reasonable.  Here are some pictures of the hotel.

Entrance: You check in and receive the key for your locker. 

They have the separate floors for men and women.

This is a floor for lockers and showers.

In your locker, you will find pajamas and a toothbrush.

You must leave all your belongings in this locker.

Here is lavatory and behind it the shower stalls

The shower stall

The sleeping floor:

After you’ve taken your shower and put your things in the locker, it’s time to go to bed.  Most Japanese prefer to take a bath before going to bed.  This floor is dark and quiet.

This is your Capsule.  You crawl into your cell and just sleep.  The capsule's height is tall enough to sit down properly.  The "door" to go in the capsule is simply a curtain in which you draw up so that you can enter.  You will be able to hear other people coughing or snoring.  Fortunately, that night I stayed was peaceful and I had a good sleep.  The only space that is yours is the capsule and the locker assigned to you

There was a rule that I found silly.   It is that you can use an alarm on your cell-phone but only in vibration mode.  With a rational point of view, I can understand the rule because I don’t want to be bothered by someone’s alarm.   On the other hand, I wondered if I have to keep my phone with me all night long to feel it vibrate.  Hahaha, how do I do that?   I was not confident to wake up with a vibration alarm.  How would you wake up?  As I was wondering about it, I got into the cell and found an alarm system on the control panel in the cell.  Of course it is not an ordinary alarm. 

I was ashamed of myself for being only with the typical alarm clock.  Indeed, sound is not the only factor to wake you up!  This alarm wakes you up with the light on the ceiling.  When the time comes, it makes the cell bright.  Wow that’s cool.  I was so delighted and excited with this system.   I set the timer and fell asleep.  I found this cell quite comfortable and had a good sleep.  Next morning, I woke up naturally before the alarm hit on.  I could not experience the alarm.  Damn!  Hahaha!

You may not find capsule hotels in the countryside but big cities usually have them.  It’s a pretty interesting experience.  You should try it!

This is the website that I found this hotel (Japanese) >>> Nine Hours

Why should a tea room be dim?

At the end of the passage next to gardens at Kotoin temple, I found what I thought was a dark space.  It was a preparation room for a tea room.  I even found it gloomy.  I walked in there and peered at the darkness, and saw that there was a small tea room right beside this room.  This small tea room is the Sansai Hosokawa’s room that I mentioned in the last entry.  I found it too dark, maybe because I had just walked from the bright passage.  Or maybe the room was dark due to the cloudy sky.  It is said that it is good to be a little dark for a Soan-style tea room.  However, some people feel that it’s dismal and gloomy.  So why should a tea room be a little dim?

While I was wondering about it, I continue taking some more photos.  During this time, my eyes finally adjusted to the darkness, and I could see more.  Check out the bottom picture compared to the picture above; Isn’t it much better?  In this photo, the light from the windows brightly illuminates the tatami mats, but in the actual view the contrast between the bright and dark parts was not that high.  The very soft flowing light from the windows filled the room.  It’s still dim but there is enough light, which is very relaxed and laid back. 

So let’s think of some reasons why tea rooms should be a little dark.  One of the reason why is probably because it’s easier to relax, or focus on your concentration.  I found an intriguing idea in a book I read.  It says that you can see things clearly in brightness, but if it’s dark, the borders between things get blurred.  The distinction with others gets ambiguous and it can help you feel a sense of wholeness.  That’s why it’s ideal for a tea ceremony.  It is more of a spiritual concept and I agree with it.  Since the tea ceremony is also for enjoying others company, it is important to be able to mingle with others.  Therefore just like a nice cozy bar to relax in, a dim lit tea room is just as good, maybe even better.

This room was a reminder that I should be careful about how bright a tea room should be.  As I left the temple, I was dreaming to have tea in this attractive dim place.  

Kotoin, Zen temple with beautiful mossed approach

This subdued scenery with moss may be one of the reasons that will make me come back to Kyoto.  I don’t like rain during any of my trips, but I’ll make an exception when going to Kyoto.  After the rain, a stone pathway and greens look more beautiful when wet.  

Here is a picture of Kotoin, one of my most favorite small temples in Ditokuji.  I was supposed to go there for tea ceremony on that day, which unfortunately did not happen. Yet my trip to the temple was not in vain because the scenery was worth the time.   I was captivated by the beauty of mosses surrounding the gateway and went into the temple.  The best thing about the garden seems that it was naturally designed.   You will feel a sense of tranquility simply by enjoying the natural looking trees.  When we visited on Nov. 28, the leaves had begun to change their colors.  The colors were still pale, and the scenery was not like an oil painting but more of water color.  There were some people peacefully enjoying tea at the porch along the garden.  I love the view that is trimmed off by the door frame. 

In Kotoin, they have a small tea room designed by Sansai Hosokawa.  Soft light fills the room from the windows creating an delicate and exquisite aura.  I longed to have a chance to be in that room.  They also have the removed and rebuilt Rikyu’s shoin-room from Jurakudai.  I found that room too somber, though (^^;;  Go to see it yourself, haha.

This temple doesn’t have anything magnificent to behold.  This temple is simple and rustic.   You might find wabi-sabi there.  If you are looking for the tranquility of Japan, this is one of the temples that I highly recommend you to visit.

Tea ceremony at Daitokuji, Kyoto 2

The temple that we finally found  for a tea ceremony was Korinin in Daitokuji, Kyoto.  I later on learned from Wikipedia that this temple is not usually open to the public.

The ceremony was held in a big room with more than 20 guests.  Most of them were wearing kimono.  Everybody seemed to know the manner of Sado, The Way of Tea, and the ceremony went along smoothly.  The most memorable thing of the ceremony was the excellent flavor of the tea.  Since I love matcha from a local tea shop in my town, I don’t usually find good tasting matcha in other places.  Fortunately, the matcha served at this ceremony was quite flavorful.  It didn’t have much bitter taste in it and the pure flavor of green has simply pleased my palate.  The tea didn’t have any undesirable flavor.  The reason for its great flavor may not only be the matcha powder itself.  The thickness, temperature and amount of liquid were all well considered and it was exquisitely prepared.  Maybe water was superb, I don’t know, but everything seemed perfect.

The matcha was Tamanoshiro from Ryuoen tea shop in Kyoto.  I wanted it for my souvenir so we visited Ryuoen on our way back from Daitokuji.  However, to my disappointment the shop was closed on that day.  Bummer! 

I found their tea on this webpage (Japanese) >>>

http://shop.kyotodays.jp/fs/kyotoseikatsu/c/020

I still don’t know where you can get schedules and information about tea ceremonies in Kyoto, but anyhow I was able to attend one at Daitokuji on 28th of last month.  We did not wear kimono and we just looked like ordinary tourists but the receptionist welcomed us.  What I can say for now is that there are some ceremonies that are open for everybody.  However, you need to be aware that most of the attendees are experienced people.  It is advisable for you to know the basic manners of tea ceremony.  If you are willing to learn the culture and participate to the authentic tea ceremony, this could be a good place for you to try.  It will be a fantastic experience at a historical Zen temple.

Another garden in Korinin.  They also have a small tea hut. 

Tea ceremony at Daitokuji, Kyoto 1

On the 28^th Oct., the second day of our trip to Kyoto, we headed to Daitokuji.  The first place we visited was Gyokurinin, one of the small temples of Daitkuji.  We found the sign for a tea ceremony on the gate.  It was slightly different from what I’ve learned from the internet, “在釜”.  This is “懸釜”, which basically have the same meaning.

We passed through the gate and walked further in Gyokurinin. We finally reached the entrance of the building, and we saw a lot of shoes on the shoe rack.  We talked to a receptionist, and she told us that there were already so many people waiting and we might have to wait for two hours.  Two hours!?  In our surprise, we looked at each other’s faces.  And then, we decided not to wait any longer, and proceed to look for other ceremonies at other temples.    

We left Gyokurinin and walked around Daitokuji.  There are small temples adjacent to each other.  We saw a gate that people in kimono were going in.  I was thinking that the temple of the gate was holding a tea ceremony.  But as I walked to the gate, I found a sign “private”.  We found a couple more gates with the same sign.  I guess that some tea ceremonies might be exclusive. 

As we were walking around, we just visited two temples for sightseeing.  They didn’t have a ceremony, but have absolutely beautiful gardens.  They are not gorgeous but they suit my taste which is simple and natural.  We were quite satisfied visiting the beautiful gardens, and we thought of giving up attending a tea ceremony. 

On the way to the parking lot, I found another gate.  We asked a receptionist if there is a tea ceremony held here.  The receptionist told us that they were holding a ceremony and we could join it.  We were finally able to find the one that we can attend to.  We waited at the waiting room for the next session for about 30 min.   The waiting room was just next to a garden with white gravel.  The historical building and the superb garden raised my expectation to anticipate the ceremony. 

To be continued …

Looking for a tea ceremony in Kyoto

I browsed about tea ceremonies in Kyoto to find out if there was any that I could attend during my trip there.  Disappointingly, I could not find much reliable sources.  But, I discovered some blogs mentioning about them.  There appear to be monthly tea ceremonies held at some of the small temples in Daitokuji often every 28^th of a month.  (Daitokuji is a famous and large temple that consists with a number of small temples.)  If a temple is holding a tea ceremony, there seem to be a sign on the entrance gate that says “在釜”.  Anyway, I’m surprised to learn that there is not much information online about tea ceremonies in Kyoto. 

I could not tell how formal the ceremonies will be.  You might need an appointment or to wear kimono.  One blog writer says that he was a tourist there and doesn’t know much about tea ceremonies.  But, he didn’t have any problems joining one.  On the other hand, some other people say that the ceremony is pretty formal and you have to wear kimono.  Humm.  I just wanted to casually join a ceremony during my Kyoto trip.  So, I decided to just go to Daitokuji and look for the sign “在釜”.  If I’m lucky, I’ll get to join one.  If I’m not, I will just have sightseeing on the beautiful gardens in Daitokuji.

Have you ever tried attending a tea ceremony in Kyoto?  How did you find the information ahead?  Do you think I could join one in Kyoto?  I’ll talk about it on the next entry.

This is Sanmon at Daitokuji.  It is said that the statue of Rikyu displayed in this Sanmon can be one of the causes of Rikyu’s seppuku execution. 

Do you want to know how to meet maiko ladies?

This weekend, I went to Kyoto for a trip.  You can find some retro streets around Gion area, where I think a good place even for a walk.  If you are lucky, you might be able to see maiko ladies.  I had a chat and walked around and took some photos with them.  It was nice to hang out with ladies in kimono stroll walk around the traditional town.  Do you want to know how to meet this kind of maiko ladies?

Actually, they are Hiro, my wife and Miwa, our tea classmate!  They are not real maiko.  There are some photo studios in Kyoto that make you into a maiko for recreation.  So, if you want to see maiko ladies, be the one yourself or have your partner to be one of them too. 

For the plan Hiro and Miwa tried, it took about 3 hours for the entire activities.  It took about one hour to make up and dress.  They had photo shooting in the studio about 15 min each.  And we had 20 min walk outside at the retro streets around the neighborhood of the studio.  And it took another hour for changing clothes and choosing the best shots for printing.  Hiro and Miwa seemed to have a lot of fun.  Since they are bit of shy, they were bashful about walking outside because people definitely looked at them.  Tourists passing maiko looked back and oftentimes they aimed their camera at the kimono ladies.  You need to be open-minded and enjoy the attention.

Photo shooting in the studio

I didn’t try it myself so I waited for a quite some time at their lounge.  While I was waiting, many groups of ladies came and went.   They all looked excited when they were having instruction at the beginning, and after the photo shooting, they were having fun selecting the photos.  The plan that Hiro and Miwa tried was about 10,000 yen, which includes an option of photo retouch.  They can cover the unnatural gap of the wig and wrinkles, hahaha.   The plan covers three printed photos (no original data) from studio shooting.  The fee varies by the plans and options.  It is a worthwhile activity in Kyoto.  Be a maiko yourself and blend into the traditional city!

The photo studio we visited >> http://www.yumekoubou.info/english/index.html

Why tea whisks matter 2

Like I’ve mentioned in the previous blog, I didn’t find a significant difference between the moderately-frothed usucha (thin tea) prepared with a 100-tine whisk and the one prepared with a 70-tine whisk.  Then, I tried the same experiment on the well-whisked usucha with plenty of foam.  The conditions are the same as the previous test.  (Matcha: 1.7 grams,  Water: 50 ml,  Whisking: 20 sec)  I beat both teas with faster motion to obtain extravagant foam, “A” with 100-tine whisk and “B” with 70-tine whisk.

“A” with 100-tine whisk,  “B” with 70-tine whisk

I felt a resistance in the liquid while I was whisking “A”, and I could feel it in my senses that a generous amount of foam was formed.  On the other hand, I find a less viscous feeling on beating liquid “B”.  Lavish foam is covered on both of the surfaces.  The photo might not be clear but if you look at it closely, you will notice that “A” has finer foam and the foam in “B” is rougher and more bubbly.  I would find out later on, after taking sips, that there are more apparent comparisons to see.  For instance, the moment that the tea bowl reached my mouth, “A” has thicker foam.  I could not tell it from the surface.  I got a totally different impression on each tea now.

If you taste them more attentively, you’ll find the same quality of bitterness and sweetness.  However, the most obvious comparison would have to do with the texture of the foam produced.   The foam in “A” fills your mouth, and delicate taste lingers for a long time.  It consisted with fine tiny bubbles, so the foam is spongier.   Meanwhile, the rough and big bubbles in “B” easily break and disappear, and give a lighter touch.   

I therefore conclude that if you prefer usucha with rich and fine foam; use a whisk with a large number of tines.  If you like your tea with lighter foam, beat with a fewer-tine whisk.  There are various factors affecting the taste and texture of tea, and you can’t simply find a perfect answer.  However, the tea whisk matters for sure. 

Why tea whisks matter 1

I did an experiment on preparing a bowl of matcha with a 100-tine whisk (A) and the other one with 70-tine whisk (B).  In the previous entry, I mentioned that lately I prefer a fewer-tine whisk for its easy handling and better grip.  I wanted to focus on how the number of tines can affect frothing and the taste this time. 

I used 1.7 grams of matcha and 50ml of water for a standard usucha, thin tea.  I gently whisked both of them with the same speed of stroke for 20sec to attain a moderate amount of foam.

Here is what I realized: when whisking, I found the whisk “B” gentlier to mix in the tea bowl.  The whisk “A” is larger in size and bulky so it limits the range of your stroke.  It is not a big deal really but it’s good to be aware of it when you choose a whisk.  I got a thin layer of foam on both of the surfaces.  “A” has a slightly more foam and it is wholly covered.  You can still see the surface partially on “B” forming a little circle.   Finesse of each bubble is pretty much the same, but with a closer observation, you can tell that the foam in “A” is a little finer.  Consecutively, I didn’t find significant differences on their taste.  They have similar textures and flavor.  To further contain my wonderings, I sifted the tea before the mixture so I didn’t find any lumps or residues at the bottom of each tea after drinking.

Now I think that you don’t have to be so picky about the whisk with preparing usucha with moderate foam.  You may find a little difference on ease of handling and frothing, but you definitely will not find a significant difference on taste. 

I started to wonder if there is any difference for well-whisked usucha with a lot of foam.  I did another round of test for it.  It’s exiting but I will talk about it on the next entry.

Impact of the foam to the taste

Do you know why the amount of the foam is different on each of the bowl of matcha in this photo?  The way of whisking tea varies depending on school traditions.  Some schools tell to whisk fast and well to attain a lot of foam, but some schools do not.  The speed of whisking makes the difference of the amount of foam.  Here in our school, Omotesenke, we are taught to whisk lightly to attain just moderate amount of foam.  

I prepared two bowls of matcha, one with a lot of foam (A) and the other with a moderate amount of foam (B).  I tasted them to concur if the way of whisking or the foam affects the taste.  I prepared the tea with a standard method of making usucha, thin tea.  I precisely measured and used 1.7 grams of matcha and 50ml (1.8oz) water for each.   I whisked both for the same period of time, 20 seconds, “A” with faster whisking and “B” with slower beating.  Which type of tea attracts your palate?

Based on my experience, I think well-whisked tea has a better taste because all of the components are perfectly mixed.   However, my instinct tells me to heed on the teachings of my school, which I had modestly done lately.  I heard different theories advocating either way.  Here I actually tasted them myself.

After all, is there really a difference in taste?  Well, I’m delighted to say Yes.  I sure found out the two teas differently.  With the first sips, I sensed stronger bitterness in “B”.  To find out more profound difference, I sipped more alternately seeking satisfaction for my curiosity of the difference.  I then realized that “A” also possessed bitterness.  I also find the same degree of grains in both of them.  So, what is truly the difference?  Density.  For “A”, you put the tea into your mouth in dig your lips into the foam.  Your mouth is filled with airy foam and it makes the taste milder.  As for “B”, the moisture or the tea itself gets your tongue covered around.   So, you can taste the intense flavor.  The difference is not really the quality of flavor, instead the feeling of texture of the ingredients has a bigger impact.

I didn’t use good quality tea this time, so I tasted bold bitterness.  I prefer the method “A” for this bitter tea.  But if it is a premium matcha, the method “B” can be good too.  I don’t want to simply conclude which is better at this point.  I want to pursue seeking and have more experience for deeper understanding through my tea carrier.