Fubuki, a utensil used in the tea lesson last night

Fubuki

Can you tell what this utensil is for?  There are many types of utensil existing in the world of The Way of Tea.  Our master introduces a new utensil in our class from time to time.  I like to show some of them sometimes in this blog.

This is a tea container.  Types of container are distinguished by their form.  The most common type is chunatsume which is often used in our lessons.  Last night in the lesson, we used a different type called fubuki.  Despite of the rounded form of chunatsume, fubuki has a cylindrical shape with chamfered edges. 

The entire ceremony with fubuki goes the same as chunatsume’s, but there are two very minor differences in its treating manner.   First difference is that of the holding position.  When you pick up the container, we hold chunatsume from upper-side, but you need to hold fubuki from right side.  Another difference is the motion of purifying.  In the beginning of the ceremony, we wipe the lid of the container with silk cloth to purify.  You need to wipe fubuki with straight stroke and rounded stroke with chunatsume.  You might think “what minor differences?!” and so what. 

I honestly don’t know the reason for the differences, but we learn these manners in the lessons.  I hope I can realize the reasons through my career and also I would like you to learn with me by reading my blog.

This is chunatsume.

Things in a sifter

My previous tea master and current master buy matcha from the same shop.  It’s an old small tea shop in the town.  I love the matcha from this tea shop; it’s the best ever.  The other day, I saw something unusual at the shop.

The lady at the shop usually take out matcha from boxes, but this time she went to mills and open a drawer under one of the mills.   In the drawer, there was a powdery substance spread from the mill.  She collected and scooped it and put it into a sifter. 

Which she gathered and put into a sifter.

I found something in the sifter.  The photo may not be so clear but you can still see something there.  They look like small balls.  Can you tell what they are? 

Well, the lady told me that they are the fruit of tea plant.  They are the things you can find after the flower wilts and its petals come off the plant.  She said that she puts them in the sifter to quicken the sifting.  She sifted matcha.  It was sure fast.  It was a new discovery at a usual shop.  She packed and wrapped the matcha with accomplished manner as usual.  

Names on Japanese confections

I chose this confection because of its pretty colors.  In fall and winter, the colors used on confections often get subdued.  That’s why this adorably colored one caught my eyes among the selections in showcase.  It is named as 惜秋 senshu, because of its fall-end melancholic feeling.  I think that a few colored leaves express the trace of fall.

I think this confection depicts a withered autumn leaf.  Based on my own perspective, I would say that the red color which remained on the tip indicates a relic of fall, and the white freckles represent frost of the coming winter.  The name of this confection is　木枯らし kogarashi, the first cold blast.

I really love how Japanese confections are named.  They are titled like an art piece or a beautiful song.  Generally, the named confections seem to display a scenery or story.   It is my little pleasure to check out the names on confections ^^

Is there any other way to prepare mellow tea?

How do you prepare tea when you want mellow tea with rich umami?  The usual method is using low temperature water and brewing it for a long time.  When I was looking back at a text book for Japanese tea adviser, I noticed there is another possibility for preparing mellow tea.

When brewed tea has high proportion of umami as against its bitterness, you will find its taste as mellow.  Please take a look at the following chart that I found in the text book.  Tannin is bitter and Amino acid has umami flavor.  Of course, “low temperature and long-time brewing” have high umami ratio.  But, don’t you notice any hint for a different way? 

Temperature	Time (sec)	Tannin content	Amino acid content	Ratio = Amino acid / Tannin
50C (122F)	30	43	28	0.65
	60	57	52	0.91
	90	72	65	0.90
	120	89	81	0.91
70C (158F)	30	53	50	0.94
	60	89	75	0.84
	90	106	85	0.80
	120	134	91	0.68
90C (194F)	30	112	70	0.63
	60	129	88	0.68
	90	149	97	0.65
	120	191	110	0.58

 Density of substance: mg/100ml

Please take a look at the ratio for 70C at 30sec.  If you notice, the ratio is 0.94 which is the highest in the chart.  So, I think this will be another possibility for mellow tea with rich umami.  I know this condition is more risky than “low temp and long time”, because a slight difference of the brewing time will have bigger impact on the taste.  You need to be more careful about controlling the conditions.  However, I think it is worth to try this preparation.  What do you think about 70C(158F) for 30sec brewing?  

“A” is a common condition that I like for mellow tea.  “B” is the condition for this issue, as you can see below:

A

50C (122F), 150sec

Leaf: 2.5g, Water: 40ml (1.4oz)

B

70C (158F), 30sec

Leaf: 4g, Water: 45ml (1.6oz)

 “A” has warmer color and “B” looks a little cooler.  Even though the ratio of umami and bitterness is similar, I understand the color distinction because of the difference in their condition.  The point is the taste.  My tentative assumption was correct!  Tea brewed with 70C (158F) for 30sec has very mellow flavor with no bitterness like sample “A”.  I can say that you can prepare mellow tea with rich umami by different ways not just limited “low temp and long time”.  “B” was slightly milder, so I can adjust the amount of leaf to get the best condition. 

The disadvantage of this method is that you consume more tea leaves and need to be more careful in measuring the time.  The advantage is that you have more flexibility for the second brewing because the leaves are less opened in the first brewing.

I don’t think this is the best way of brewing mellow tea.  But now, I have more options. It is always good to find a new way^^

Caffeine in the second and third infusions

We usually enjoy the change of taste through repeated brewing of the same tea leaves.   This procedure is hereinafter referred to as "repeating infusions".  Many of you might have experienced that umami flavor is getting milder as the number of infusion goes along.  What about the caffeine?  Does it get milder in the second brewing as well?

Incidentally, the level of Amino acid (umami) on the second infusion will get only about 60% of the first infusion. (The condition is the same as the following test) My previous entry didn’t mention anything about repeating infusions.  Practically speaking, I think we need to consider about them.  I have a good data from my Japanese Tea Adviser textbook, as follows:

Leaf (sencha): 6g,

First brewing: 70C/158F 170ml 90sec,

Second-Fifth brewing: 90C/194F 170ml 10sec

Japanese Tea Adviser Koza, Japanese Tea Instructor Association, 2009

How do you interpret this data?  I was kind of surprised with the high level of caffeine on the first few infusions.  Even though the level gradually decreases from the third infusion, the first and second are almost the same, and the third still has about 80% of the first.  This is higher than I originally imagined.  I’ll remember this information for my daily tea, and it will be useful.

I just want you to be aware that the caffeine level will very much differ by brewing conditions.  Why do I say that?  Do you remember the caffeine level on the previous entry?  44mg (first infusion on Today’s data) is much higher than 20mg of the previous one.  44mg is even higher than 30mg of black tea.  I think you need to refer to these data as a rough guide for your tea.

Which drink has the most caffeine: green tea, coffee or black tea?

I’ve realized that there are different opinions regarding caffeine in sencha (green tea), coffee or black tea (British tea)?   Which of the three do you think have the most caffeine? 

I browsed about this topic on the internet.  There seem to be two major opinions on this matter as follows: (in the order of high caffeine)

1.    Coffee > black tea > sencha

2.    Black tea > coffee > sencha

In either case, sencha seems to be the drink that has the least caffeine among these three.

I think that the most reliable source among all the webpages that I’ve checked out will be STANDARD TABLES OF FOOD COMPOSITION IN JAPAN Fifth Revised and Enlarged Edition from Ministry of education, culture, sports, science and technology Japan.

http://www.mext.go.jp/b_menu/shingi/gijyutu/gijyutu3/toushin/05031802.htm

http://www.mext.go.jp/b_menu/shingi/gijyutu/gijyutu3/toushin/05031802/002/016.pdf

Caffeine in 100ml (3.5oz) prepared form

Prepared form	Caffeine level	Preparation
Coffee	0.06g	Grinded coffee:10g, Boiling water 150ml
Black tea	0.03g	Leaf:5g, boiling water 360ml, 1.5-4min
Sencha (green tea)	0.02g	Leaf:10g, 90degC 360ml water, 1min

Now, I understand that coffee has the most caffeine and sencha has the least.  I also found another interesting data about caffeine in some other Japanese tea. Do you think gyokuro and matcha has more caffeine? 

Caffeine in 100ml (3.5oz) prepared form

Prepared form	Caffeine level	Preparation
Gyokuro (green tea)	0.16g	Leaf:10g, 60degC 60ml water, 2.5min
Matcha (green tea)	0.10g	1.5g/50ml
Coffee	0.06g	Grinded coffee:10g, Boiling water 150ml
Black tea	0.03g	Leaf:5g, boiling water 360ml, 1.5-4min
Sencha (green tea)	0.02g	Leaf:10g, 90degC 360ml water, 1min
Oolong tea	0.02g	Leaf:15g, 90degC 650ml water, 0.5min
Hojicha (green tea)	0.02g	Leaf:15g, 90degC 650ml water, 0.5min
Bancha (green tea)	0.01g	Leaf:15g, 90degC 650ml water, 0.5min
Genmaicha (green tea)	0.01g	Leaf:15g, 90degC 650ml water, 0.5min

The data has been round off, and this number is not so precise.

I think the result will differ by preparing conditions.  But, what I can say from this data is if you want to be awake, gyokuro or matcha will be your option other than coffee.  If you want to have some tea before going to bed bancha or genmaicha will be good.

Soba-cha, soba tea

The aroma is richer than ordinary tea.  I love the nutty roasted taste.

Soba is known as noodle made of buckwheat.  Soba-cha, soba tea is not tea technically, because it is no made of tea plant.  It is buckwheat.  Without any proof, I assume myself that it doesn’t have caffeine so I drink it even before going to bed (^^;;.  The sweet nutty flavor soothes my mind.  

The difference between sencha, kabusecha and gyokuro

The appearance of sencha, kabusecha and gyokuro tea leaves looks very similar.  I can’t yet tell the difference just by the appearance.  I have to smell and taste them.  But, some experts can tell if it is sencha or kabusecha just by the hue of dry leaves.  Isn’t that impressive?  I need more training on that (^^;;

You might already know the difference of their taste and preparation among those three teas.  (If you don’t know them, please refer to the brief note at the bottom of this entry.)  Today, I want to talk a little technical stuff.   Basically, they are all made of the same tea plant and processed in the same way.  So, they all look similar.  Then, what makes them different? 

The difference is the cultivation of tea plant. 

Sencha: No covering

The tea plant is grown under the sun light for the entire time. 

Kabusecha: Light covering

Before picking the leaves, the tea plant is LIGHTLY covered with a screen to shut out the direct sunlight.

Light-blocking: 60-90% for 1-3weeks

You can make sencha-tic kabusecha or gyokuro-tic kabusecha by adjusting the degree of covering.

Gyokuro: Deep covering

Before picking the leaves, the tea plant is DEEPLY covered with a screen to shut out the direct sunlight.

55-60% for 7-10days + 95-98% for 10days = about 20days

Covering makes more umami in tea.  Main substance of umami is Theanine, which changes into Catechin (bitterness) by exposing sun light in leaf.  So, covered tea has more umami and milder bitterness.  (Japanese Tea Adviser Koza, Japanese Tea Instructor Association, 2009 May)

I think the extra effort of the farmers makes the tea premium and expensive.  Try to look at dry leaves carefully, if you can tell what they are just by their hue, you might already be an expert of Japanese tea, hahaha^^

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 NOTE:

Snecha: Most common green tea

Prepared with 70-90C (158-194F) water for 1 min

Good harmony of umami and bitterness

Kabusecha: Green tea in between gyokuro and sencha

Prepared as same as sencha

Similar flavor with sencha but has more umami

Gyokuro: Premium green tea

Prepared with very small amount of lukewarm water (40-60C/104-140F) for 2-3min

Condensed umami essence

What is a good place for long-term tea storage at home?

At room temperature, in the refrigerator or in the freezer.  I have three samples stored for six months at the mentioned places.  They were triple packed (plastic pouch, tea caddy, Ziplock) and they have not been opened for that duration. 

The samples

D: room temperature

E: refrigerator

F: freezer

What do you observe in the pictures?

I found some differences in dry leaves and brewed tea.  To tell the conclusion first, they are all bad.  Brewed tea D turned reddish in color, which is not a correct hue for shencha.  D also doesn’t have a depth in its taste and I found a dusty flavor.  E has a yucky bitterness that I tasted in the back of my mouth.  F is similar with E but much stronger.  F is the worst in taste.  I don’t want to drink any of these teas even for my casual consumption.  I am very disappointed with the result. 

Some of you who have been reading my blog might have noticed the reason of the failure.  The day when I prepared the samples six months ago was a rainy humid day.  The only cause that I can think of is humidity.  The leaves might have absorbed some moisture and I packed the leaves with humid air as well.  The moisture must have ruined the tea during the storing.  I’m sorry that I could not give you the answer for this subject.  But, from this experiment, I can say that it does not matter where you store tea if you pack it on a humid day.  Moisture is a very negative factor for tea storing.  So please avoid packing tea in a humid day.

I’ll try to do the same experiment again to check if I can get different results next spring.